A Power Washing Problem

This time of year, you can spot it all over town. The first warm weekend hits, someone drags out a power washer, and suddenly every surface around the house is getting blasted.

On the surface, it feels productive. The house looks cleaner and the grime disappears. You stand back and think, great, my spring cleaning is done. The problem is, power washing is one of the easiest ways to accidentally damage your home if you don’t know what you’re doing.

I see it every spring. The biggest misconception is that more pressure equals a better clean. But it really means you’re forcing water into places it shouldn’t go or stripping away materials that are supposed to protect your home.

Take siding, for example. Vinyl siding is designed to shed water, not withstand high-pressure spray at close range. Aim a pressure washer upward or get too close, and you can drive water behind the panels. That moisture gets trapped and over time it can lead to mold, mildew, and even rot in the structure underneath.

Wood is even less forgiving. We’ve seen plenty of decks and trim that looked fine before a weekend cleaning and came out rough, splintered, and permanently damaged. Once you tear up the surface fibers of wood, you can’t undo it. You’re sanding, repairing, or replacing it entirely.

Then there are windows. High-pressure water can break seals, force moisture into frames, and shorten the lifespan of the window itself. Again, it might not show up immediately, but it’s the kind of damage that creeps in over time.

And don’t forget about paint. A pressure washer in the wrong hands can strip paint right off siding and trim. Sometimes people think they’re “prepping” a surface and end up creating a much bigger project than they planned for.

So what’s the right way to do it?

First, understand that most homes don’t need high pressure at all. What they need is the right cleaning solution and a controlled rinse. A soft wash with low pressure, combined with a cleaner that breaks down dirt, algae, and mildew is usually far more effective and a lot safer. One of my favorite products is Wet It and Forget it which doesn’t require any pressure washing at all and is great at removing common outdoor stains and grime.

Second, distance matters. Standing too close is where most of the damage happens. If you’re using a pressure washer, keep your distance and let the water do the work gradually instead of trying to blast everything off in one pass.

Third, know what you’re cleaning. Concrete can handle pressure. Your siding, trim, windows, and deck? Not in the same way. Treating everything the same is where people get into trouble.

Lastly, timing matters. Early spring is a great time to clean up your home’s exterior but it’s also when materials are still coming off a long winter. They’re not always in their strongest condition, which makes aggressive cleaning even riskier.

The goal here isn’t to scare you off from cleaning your house. It’s to do it in a way that actually helps instead of quietly creating problems you won’t notice until later. If you’re going to power wash this spring, ease up on the trigger. Your house will thank you for it.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Roof Damage Isn't Just What's on the Outside

I recently did work for a homeowner who was shocked to see black, rotten plywood underneath her roof. She never had a leak and wondered how there could be so much damage without any signs, other than an old roof that was deteriorating and needed to be replaced.

I see this problem a lot more often then you might think. In our area of Connecticut, 90 percent of attics don’t have enough insulation and aren’t properly ventilated. I meet people who need a new roof and want me to just replace the shingles to save money. What they don’t realize is how much deterioration exists where they can’t see. Once the plywood is exposed, warping, delamination, and rot from moisture usually come as quite a shock. 

So why does this happen? The issue is actually airflow. Attic ventilation allows your house to “breathe” by taking air in from the outside and letting air out from the inside. Too many homes that I work in aren’t properly ventilated and most have their bathroom and even dryer vents exhausting into the attic instead of outside. 

In order to have proper ventilation, your home needs a system that includes intake ventilation through the soffit or a new product called SmartVent which is installed on top of the roof near the gutter edge. Louver vents were typically used at an exhaust vent in the 1950s and 1960s but now ridge vents are more common. If your house has both louver vents and ridge vents, the louver vents should remain closed, otherwise, the louver will act as an intake vent and will only cool the top third of the attic. 

In the colder months, it’s not uncommon for me to see frost on attic plywood because of inferior insulation. Insulation and ventilation work hand in hand - the ventilation controls the airflow and the insulation controls the temperature. You’re probably familiar with insulation - it’s a cotton-looking fiberglass material that often comes in pink or yellow rolls. It can also be loose-filled into tough to reach areas with a blowing machine. Remodeling professionals put insulation between walls, in attics, and in basements to retain heat in the house in the winter and keep it cooler in the summer. However, without proper ventilation, insulation is just as susceptible to moisture and deterioration as plywood.

My customer never went up into her attic, so she didn’t notice the problem. What she thought was a simple roof replacement ended up being a bigger job simply because, after years of decay, the plywood she had was no longer strong enough to properly support the new roof. Ignoring the problem and laying new shingles over the existing plywood would have voided the new roof’s 30-year warranty.

The lesson for this week? If you’re going to reroof your home, make sure that the plywood is healthy and that your contractor has given you a thorough plan to ensure that your home is properly insulated and ventilated. It might cost a bit more today, but it will regulate the heat and cooling in your home, saving on energy costs and making you much more comfortable for years to come.

Bob O'Donnell is the owner of O'Donnell Bros, Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro”. All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O'Donnell Bros, Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Get Rid of That Funky Roof Mold

Have patterns of strange, streaky stains appeared on your roof this spring? My phone rings off the hook for roof cleanings this time of year, and as I drive around town, I see so many houses decorated with unsightly roof residue, which frequently emerges during the April rainy season. But what are the stains, why have they suddenly popped up, and what can you do to get rid of it? They are all good questions, so let’s get you some answers.

Stains on the roof are generally algae, which gets carried by wind or birds from roof to roof, and may not be visible until they have enough moisture, heat, and humidity to grow and spread. The manifestation of an algae problem is those black streaks that you see. Now don’t be too alarmed, algae isn’t necessarily going to ruin your roof immediately, but it does affect the curb appeal of your home and the problem could end up damaging and pulling up your shingles if not dealt with for a long period of time.

An interesting fact is that copper, zinc, and lead are toxic to algae, and many newer roof shingles contain copper granules, which act as a barrier against any mold growth. Homes with older roofs won’t benefit from this technology, but it explains why you won’t see algae where metal flashing has been installed. If you’re susceptible to algae and in the market for a new roof, be sure to inquire about this type of shingle.

So now that we know what it is, how do we get rid of it? The easiest way to rid your roof of algae is a good cleaning solution, which can be picked up at the hardware store, applied using a pump sprayer and rinsed with the garden hose. One tip is to give any plants below the roof a good drink of water beforehand so they don’t absorb the solution. If you’re not comfortable on a ladder, call a professional to help you complete this task. A clean roof isn’t worth a trip to the hospital, and a local area home improvement specialist will be able to complete the job in just a few hours.

Once the roof has been cleaned, you might want to do something to prevent the mold from coming back again. As I mentioned, copper, zinc and lead-coated sheet metal are toxic to algae, so installing a strip of flashing will help stop that nasty fungus in its tracks. Choose a strip that’s at least six inches wide, and have it installed at the roof peak to ensure that the metal molecules wash down with the rain and protect the roof from mold build up.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.