Find Out Where the Cold Is Coming From Before You Turn Up the Thermostat

There’s a routine I hear about from a lot of Connecticut homeowners this time of year. You sit down in your favorite chair after dinner, feel a chill, and head for the thermostat. An hour later, the kitchen is toasty, the upstairs is stuffy, and your feet are still cold.

Before you bump the heat up another degree, take a walk around the house. More often than not, the culprit is something small that’s been there since last winter.

Start with where you feel it.

Is it the whole house, one room, or just the chair by the window? Does it get worse when the wind picks up? Is the room fine in the afternoon but cold after sundown? Those answers will point you toward the problem faster than the thermostat will.

Check the windows and doors.

Make sure your windows are fully closed and locked. I know that sounds too obvious, but a window that was open on one of those warm October afternoons doesn’t always get sealed properly when it’s shut again. The lock helps pull the sashes together snugly.

On a breezy day, run your hand around the window edges and trim, then do the same around your exterior doors. If you feel air moving, look at the weatherstripping. It flattens, cracks, and comes loose over time. Check the door sweep at the bottom, too. A worn one is often the reason for cold ankles.

Feeling a draft doesn’t automatically mean you need new windows or doors. Often a repair or fresh weatherstripping does the job. Find the problem first, then decide on the fix.

Look at your furniture.

A couch pushed against a baseboard heater or a rug over a floor register keeps heat from getting into the room, and long curtains can do the same thing. Keep heating equipment and return-air vents clear, and follow the manufacturer’s clearance requirements. The furniture layout that worked all summer may need a small adjustment now.

Make your window coverings work for you.

Open them when the sun is shining in, then close them at night to cut down on heat loss. Just keep curtains well away from any heaters. And if your favorite chair sits right next to a big window, sliding it a couple of feet into the room might be all it takes to make your evenings more comfortable.

Don’t forget the filter.

If you have forced-air heat, check the filter according to your system’s instructions, because a dirty one restricts airflow. If you’re not sure which filter to use or how often to change it, ask your heating technician. And if a room suddenly stops getting heat, have the system looked at instead of turning up the thermostat to compensate.

Think beyond windows and doors.

Windows and doors get most of the blame because we sit and walk next to them, but they’re not the only places air sneaks in. Check around the attic hatch, plumbing pipes, and anywhere wiring passes through the house.

That said, please don’t head into the attic with a can of spray foam and seal everything you see. Some openings need to stay clear, and areas around chimneys and heating equipment need special care. If the house is uncomfortable all the time, a professional home energy assessment can pinpoint air leaks, insulation needs, and other causes.

Keep a list.

As you walk around, jot down the room, what you feel, and when it happens. It’s useful whether you end up making a simple repair yourself or calling someone in, because it saves a lot of guesswork.

There’s nothing wrong with turning up the heat when you need it. But before you spend the winter fiddling with the thermostat, give the house a little attention. A few easy fixes might be all it takes to get that chair comfortable again.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Decorating Mistakes That Can Damage Your House

After last week’s column about sprucing up the outside of your home for fall, I got a good follow-up question: What’s the best way to decorate without damaging the house?

It’s worth talking about because we’re entering several straight months of outdoor decorating. Pumpkins and Halloween decorations will soon give way to Thanksgiving wreaths and then holiday lights and garlands. And every year, homeowners unintentionally make holes, trap moisture, or damage parts of their homes in the process. So before you start decorating, here are a few things I’d avoid.

Don’t Put Holes in Your Siding

This is probably the biggest one. Vinyl siding is designed to shed water, and putting a screw or nail through it creates a hole where there shouldn’t be one.

Instead, look for siding hooks and clips designed to slip into the seams of vinyl siding without puncturing it. There are also exterior-rated removable hooks that work on certain surfaces.

The same rule applies when the Christmas lights come out. There are inexpensive clips made specifically for attaching lights to gutters, shingles and other surfaces without putting holes in them.

Be Careful With Brick and Masonry

Brick may seem indestructible, but that doesn’t mean you should start drilling into it every time you want to hang something.

If something truly needs to be permanently mounted, it should be done with the proper fastener and in the proper location. For temporary seasonal decorations, look for alternatives such as brick clips that grip the brick without drilling.

And if you do need to drill into masonry, know what you’re drilling into first. Brick, mortar and manufactured stone aren’t interchangeable.

Don’t Hang Heavy Decorations From Gutters

Gutters are another tempting attachment point, particularly during the holidays.

Lightweight light clips are one thing. A heavy wreath, garland or decoration pulling on the gutter is another. Gutters aren’t designed to support much additional weight, and a heavy decoration combined with wind, rain, snow or ice can pull sections loose or affect their pitch.

Use gutters for products specifically designed to attach there, not as an all-purpose hanging system.

Watch What You Put Against the House

Some of my favorite fall decorations are also some of the messiest. Pumpkins, hay bales, cornstalks and live plants all hold moisture. If they sit against wood trim, siding or a door for weeks, particularly during a rainy stretch, they can keep that area damp.

Give natural decorations a little breathing room. Check underneath pumpkins and planters occasionally, too. A pumpkin that looked great when you bought it can turn into a soft, leaking mess surprisingly quickly.

The same goes for outdoor rugs. If one stays soaked after every rain, periodically lift it and let the surface underneath dry.

Think Twice Before Using Adhesive

Not every product marketed as removable behaves perfectly on every surface. Adhesive hooks and tape can be useful, but check whether the product is rated for outdoor use and appropriate for the material you’re putting it on. Painted doors and trim are especially worth treating carefully. Pulling off a decoration in January and taking a patch of paint with it isn't the way anyone wants to finish the holidays.

When removing adhesive products, follow the manufacturer’s directions rather than simply pulling them off.

Remember That Decorations Move

Something that looks perfectly harmless when you put it up on a calm afternoon may behave very differently during the first windy October night.

Signs, wreaths, metal decorations and other hanging pieces can repeatedly bang or scrape against siding, doors and trim. Over several weeks, that movement can scratch paint and finishes.

Secure decorations well and pay attention to what they'll touch if the wind starts moving them around.

Don’t Forget About the Door

The front door tends to get more decorations than just about any other part of the house.

Before hanging a large wreath or sign, make sure it isn’t interfering with the storm door, weatherstripping, lock or door operation. Over-the-door wreath hangers are convenient, but very thick ones can sometimes prevent a door from closing or sealing properly. If you have to force the door closed once the decoration is installed, find another way to hang it.

A Little Restraint Saves Repairs Later

I’m all for decorating the house. Fall and the holidays are some of the best times of year to make the front of your home feel welcoming.

Just remember that most seasonal decorations will only be there for a few weeks. It doesn’t make much sense to create a permanent hole, stain or repair for something temporary.

Use the right clips and fasteners, keep moisture in mind, and pay attention to what you're attaching decorations to. When January rolls around and everything comes back down, your house should look exactly the way it did before you started.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Early Fall Is a Good Time to Give Your Water Heater Some Attention

We tend to think about our heating systems as soon as the temperatures start to drop, but there’s another hardworking appliance in the house that deserves a little attention this time of year: your water heater.

Early fall is a great time to give it a once-over. As the weather cools, the water entering your home gets colder, which means your water heater has to work harder to bring it up to temperature. Add in more hot showers, baths and general indoor time, and a small problem now can become a much bigger inconvenience in the middle of winter.

A little preventative maintenance can help keep your water heater running efficiently and, hopefully, help you catch trouble before you're standing in a cold shower in January.

1. Clear the Area Around It

Start with an easy one. Head down to the basement or utility room and take a look at what has accumulated around your water heater.

Boxes, paint cans, cleaning supplies and miscellaneous household storage have a way of migrating toward mechanical equipment. Keep the area around the unit clear so you can easily inspect it and so there's adequate airflow around equipment that requires ventilation.

While you're there, take a good look at the floor around the tank. Any unexplained moisture, rust or staining is worth investigating.

2. Check the Temperature

For many households, 120°F is a good water-heater setting. It provides plenty of hot water while reducing the risk of scalding and avoiding the energy waste that comes with keeping water unnecessarily hot.

If your water suddenly seems much hotter or cooler than usual, however, don't just adjust the thermostat and forget about it. A noticeable change can sometimes point to a thermostat, heating element or other issue that needs attention.

3. Consider Flushing the Tank

Over time, minerals and sediment can collect at the bottom of a traditional tank-style water heater. That buildup can reduce efficiency and is sometimes responsible for the popping or rumbling noises you hear coming from an older tank.

Periodically flushing the tank can help remove that sediment. If you routinely maintain your water heater and are comfortable doing it, follow the manufacturer's instructions for your particular model.

If the tank hasn't been flushed in years, is quite old, or you're not sure what you're doing, this may be a good job to leave to a plumber. Older drain valves don't always appreciate being opened after sitting untouched for a decade.

4. Look at the Pipes and Insulation

If your water heater is located in an unfinished or chilly basement, insulating accessible hot-water pipes can reduce heat loss as water travels through the house. Foam pipe insulation is inexpensive and relatively easy to install.

Some older tank-style water heaters may also benefit from an insulating blanket, but don't automatically wrap every tank you see. Many newer models are already well insulated, and additional insulation may not be recommended. Check the manufacturer's instructions first, particularly with gas-fired units where vents, controls and air intakes must remain unobstructed.

5. Don't Forget the Safety Components

Tank-style water heaters have a temperature and pressure relief valve designed to release water if pressure or temperature inside the tank becomes unsafe.

This is an important safety device, but it's also one I don't recommend experimenting with if you're unsure of its condition, especially on an older water heater. If you notice leaking or corrosion around the valve or discharge pipe, have it inspected by a professional. A plumber can also check the valve as part of routine water-heater maintenance.

6. Ask About the Anode Rod

Inside most traditional tank water heaters is an anode rod designed to corrode before the steel tank does. It's a relatively small component that can have a big impact on the life of the water heater.

Anode rods don't last forever. If your tank is several years old and you've never had the rod inspected, ask about it the next time you have the system serviced. Replacing a depleted rod can help protect a tank that's otherwise in good condition.

7. Pay Attention to What Your Water Heater Is Telling You

Water heaters usually give you some warning when things aren't quite right. Keep an eye — and an ear — out for:

• Rust or corrosion around fittings

• Water collecting around the bottom of the tank

• Rumbling, popping or other new noises

• Rust-colored or cloudy hot water

• Hot water that runs out faster than it used to

• Water that takes noticeably longer to heat

• Unexplained changes in water temperature

None of these automatically means you need a new water heater, but they're good reasons to have it checked before the problem gets worse.

8. Know the Age of Your Water Heater

If you have no idea how old your water heater is, fall is a good time to find out. Check the manufacturer's label for the model and serial number; the manufacturer can usually help you determine the date it was made.

Traditional tank water heaters don't last forever, and once yours gets into the 10-year-plus range, it's smart to pay closer attention to its condition and start thinking ahead. That doesn't mean replacing a perfectly good water heater simply because it had a birthday. It means avoiding the unpleasant surprise of having an aging tank fail without a plan.

If replacement is on the horizon, you'll also have more choices when you're planning ahead than you will during an emergency. Today's options include high-efficiency tank models, heat-pump water heaters and tankless systems, depending on your home and your family's needs.

A Little Fall Maintenance Goes a Long Way

We spend plenty of time getting our homes ready for colder weather — cleaning gutters, servicing furnaces, sealing drafts and putting away the patio furniture. Your water heater deserves a spot on that fall checklist too.

Take ten minutes to look it over now. Check for leaks and corrosion, clear the surrounding area and think about when it was last serviced. A little attention in September or October can help keep the hot water flowing when you really don't want to be thinking about it in January.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.