Is Fall Mold Creeping Onto Your Roof

As the crisp autumn air settles in and the leaves start to fall, most homeowners are focused on pumpkin decor and raking their yards. But there’s something sneaky that may be settling in overhead: roof mold. Yes, fall is prime time for mold to make itself at home on your shingles, and ignoring it could lead to bigger (and more expensive) problems down the road.

Let’s break down what roof mold is, why it thrives in the fall, and what you can do to kick it to the curb before it spreads.

Why Fall Is Mold’s Favorite Season

Mold is a fungus that loves moisture, shade, and organic debris - all of which come together perfectly during autumn in New England. Here’s why:

• Falling Leaves: Leaves that land on your roof can trap moisture and block sunlight, creating damp, shaded pockets where mold thrives.

• Cooler Temperatures: As temperatures drop, homeowners may not notice excess moisture buildup because it’s not evaporating as quickly.

• Shorter Days: Less sunlight means less natural drying power for your roof.

• Clogged Gutters: Leaf-filled gutters lead to poor drainage and water pooling on the roof. Mold eats this up, literally.

What Mold Does to Your Roof (It’s Not Just Ugly)

Roof mold might seem like just a cosmetic issue, until it isn’t. Here’s what can happen if mold takes hold:

• Shingle Damage: Mold can deteriorate asphalt shingles and shorten your roof’s lifespan. It eats away at the granules that protect your roof from UV rays and weather damage.

• Wood Rot: If moisture seeps beneath the shingles, it can lead to rotting of the underlying wood structures, threatening your roof’s structural integrity.

• Insulation Issues: Mold creeping into your attic or insulation can ruin energy efficiency, sending your heating bills through the roof - pun intended.

• Health Concerns: Mold spores can make their way into your home’s air, potentially triggering allergies, asthma, or other respiratory issues for your family.

How to Stop Fall Mold Before It Starts

The good news? Roof mold isn’t inevitable. With a little proactive maintenance, you can keep your roof mold-free all season long. Here’s how:

1. Clean Your Roof (and Gutters)
   Leaves, twigs, and debris are mold’s favorite housewarming gifts. Clear your roof and gutters regularly, especially after a big wind or rainstorm.

2. Check Your Attic Ventilation
   Poor airflow in the attic can trap moisture and encourage mold growth from the inside out. Make sure vents are clear and consider installing an attic fan if airflow is limited.

3. Trim Back Overhanging Branches
   Shade is great for picnics, not for roofs. Cutting back branches allows more sunlight to hit your roof and dry up any lingering moisture.

4. Inspect for Leaks and Damaged Shingles

   Take a walk around your home and look for signs of water damage, cracked shingles, or dark streaks. If you spot anything suspicious, call in a pro.

5. Consider Copper or Zinc Strips
   These metal strips, installed near the peak of your roof, naturally kill mold and algae as rainwater washes down over them. It’s a smart investment for long-term mold prevention.

6. Book a Professional Roof Inspection
   Fall is an ideal time to have a professional take a look. They can spot early signs of mold or damage you might miss from the ground.

When in Doubt, Call It Out

If you already see mold growing on your roof, don’t panic, but don’t ignore it either. DIY solutions may help with small patches, but for widespread or stubborn growth, it’s best to bring in the experts. Professional mold removal will ensure it’s safely and thoroughly taken care of, without damaging your roof in the process.

A clean, mold-free roof isn’t just about curb appeal. It’s about protecting your investment, your home’s structural integrity, and your family’s health. So this fall, while you’re sipping cider and enjoying the foliage, take a few minutes to look up. Your roof might be trying to tell you something.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

How to Spot Trouble with Your Chimney Before Fireplace Season

As the days get shorter and the air gets cooler, many homeowners look forward to that first cozy fire of the season. But before you strike a match, it’s important to make sure your chimney is in good working order. A damaged or blocked chimney doesn’t just reduce efficiency - it can create serious safety hazards, including chimney fires and carbon monoxide buildup. The good news? A little preventative maintenance now can save you from expensive repairs and dangerous situations later.

Here’s what to look for when checking your chimney this fall.

Cracks and Gaps in the Masonry

Start with a visual inspection. If you see crumbling mortar, missing bricks, or hairline cracks, that’s a sign your chimney is weakening. Water can seep into these gaps, freeze in the winter, and make the damage worse. Over time, this can compromise the entire structure. Small cracks can often be sealed, but larger problems usually require professional repair.

A Damaged Chimney Cap or Crown

Your chimney cap is the unsung hero of the fireplace system. It keeps out rain, snow, animals, and debris. Without it, your chimney can quickly become clogged or water-damaged. Similarly, the chimney crown - the cement slab at the very top - acts as a shield. If you notice rust on the cap or chips in the crown, it’s time to repair or replace before moisture finds its way inside.

Creosote Buildup

Even if the outside looks fine, the inside of your chimney can be another story. Burning wood produces a tar-like substance called creosote, which clings to the interior walls. Creosote is highly flammable, and too much of it can spark a chimney fire. If you notice a strong, smoky odor, or if you can see black, shiny buildup inside, schedule a professional cleaning before you use the fireplace again.

Signs of Water Damage

Look around the base of your chimney and inside your attic for water stains or dampness. Discoloration on ceilings and walls near the chimney can be a red flag. Water entering through cracks or missing flashing (the metal seal where the chimney meets the roof) can cause mold, rot, and costly structural issues.

While You’re Up There - Check Your Roof

Inspecting your chimney is also a great opportunity to take a quick look at your roof. Loose, curling, or missing shingles can lead to leaks that damage not only your chimney but your entire home. Shingle problems are easiest to fix when they’re caught early, so don’t wait until you see water spots inside your house to take action.

When to Call a Pro

Some issues, like trimming back tree branches or replacing a simple cap, may be safe for homeowners to tackle. But climbing on a roof always comes with risks, and chimney repairs often require professional tools and expertise. If you’re unsure about the condition of your chimney or roof, schedule an inspection with a qualified contractor. It’s a small investment that can prevent big problems down the line.

A healthy chimney doesn’t just make your fireplace more efficient; it keeps your family safe, too. Take a little time this season to inspect for cracks, damaged caps, creosote buildup, and signs of water leaks. And while you’re up there, give your roof a once-over, too. A careful check now means peace of mind when you’re enjoying those winter nights by the fire.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Power Washing Done Right

When it comes to giving your home’s exterior a fresh, clean look, few things are as satisfying as a good power wash. Over time, siding, decks, patios, and walkways collect layers of dirt, mildew, pollen, and grime—especially after a long New England winter and a wet spring. Power washing can bring surfaces back to life, but it’s not as simple as pointing and spraying. In fact, using the wrong pressure or technique can cause real damage.

So before you rent a machine or hire someone to tackle the job, here’s what you need to know to do it safely and effectively.

What Exactly Is Power Washing?

Power washing, sometimes called pressure washing, involves using a high-pressure stream of water to clean outdoor surfaces. Some machines use hot water (true “power washers”), while others use cold. Either way, the goal is the same: remove built-up dirt, mold, algae, and stains.

It’s commonly used on vinyl siding, wood decks, fences, concrete walkways, and driveways. Done properly, it can restore surfaces to like-new condition. But when done poorly, it can strip paint, dent siding, damage wood, or even force water behind your walls, causing moisture problems you won’t notice until later.

Why Technique Matters

The biggest mistake homeowners make with power washing is using too much pressure or holding the nozzle too close to the surface. While it might feel like you’re getting a deep clean, what you’re really doing is wearing away layers of your home.

Wood decks, in particular, are easy to damage. Softwoods like pine can splinter if blasted too hard. Vinyl siding can crack or become loose. Even concrete patios can show streaks or etching if the pressure is too high. Window seals, trim, and exterior caulking are all vulnerable to water intrusion if the spray angle is too aggressive.

The key to successful power washing is using the right amount of pressure and keeping a safe distance. Professionals typically start several feet away from the surface and gradually move closer, testing as they go. They also choose the correct spray tip for the job - wider angles for delicate surfaces, narrower ones for tough stains.

When It Works and When It Doesn’t

Power washing works well on most exterior materials - vinyl siding, concrete, brick, and certain types of wood. But it’s not ideal for everything. Asphalt roofing, older masonry with loose mortar, and painted surfaces that aren’t in great condition can be easily damaged. It’s also important to avoid spraying near electrical outlets, light fixtures, or windows.

Some surfaces benefit from using a cleaning solution before washing. Mildew and algae, common in shady areas or near trees, may require a cleaner designed for siding or decks. These help break down organic growth so that the power washer can rinse it away gently.

Know When to Call in a Pro

If your home is two stories tall, has delicate finishes, or hasn’t been cleaned in years, hiring a professional might be the safer option. A reputable company will know how to get the job done without harming your home’s exterior or landscaping. They’ll also have the right equipment for harder-to-reach areas.

Power washing can be a great way to refresh your home’s curb appeal, but it’s not a job to take lightly. With the right tools and a little know-how, you can do it yourself safely. And when in doubt, a professional can help protect your investment.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Have a question? Email info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.