Ice Dam Prevention This Winter

If this winter feels unpredictable, you’re not wrong. We’ve been experiencing a familiar but frustrating pattern: cold temperatures and snow followed by milder daytime weather, then freezing again overnight. That constant freeze-thaw cycle is the perfect recipe for ice dams, even in years when snowfall totals are relatively modest.

Ice dams form when snow accumulates on a roof and begins to melt during warmer daytime temperatures. Heat escaping from the home, often through an under-insulated attic, warms sections of the roof just enough to melt the snow. The water then runs down toward the eaves and gutters, where roof temperatures are colder. As nighttime temperatures drop, that water refreezes. When this melting and refreezing happens repeatedly, a thick ridge of ice builds up along the roof edge, creating an ice dam.

These icy barriers don’t just sit harmlessly at the edge of your roof. They block proper drainage, forcing melting snow to back up under shingles. That water can seep into the attic, soak insulation, stain ceilings, damage walls, and create conditions that encourage mold growth. The weight of the ice itself can also pull gutters away from the house or loosen shingles, opening the door to even more water damage.

Homeowners should watch for early warning signs. Large icicles hanging from gutters, uneven snow melt across the roof, or water stains appearing on interior walls during winter are all indicators that heat is escaping and ice dams may be forming.

When ice dams appear, many homeowners are tempted to take matters into their own hands, but this is where things often go wrong. One of the most common mistakes is hacking away at ice with a shovel, axe, or ice chopper. While it may feel productive in the moment, this can easily damage shingles, puncture the roof, or dent gutters, leading to repairs that cost far more than the ice dam ever would have. Another risky approach is climbing onto an icy roof without proper safety equipment. Slips and falls are a serious hazard during winter and can result in severe injury.

Chemical deicers can also cause problems if used improperly. Products not designed specifically for roofs may damage shingles, kill nearby landscaping, or corrode metal gutters. Even roof-safe deicing products should be used cautiously and viewed as a temporary measure, not a long-term solution.

The real fix for ice dams isn’t on the roof at all. It starts in the attic. Proper insulation and ventilation help keep roof temperatures consistent, preventing snow from melting unevenly in the first place. Unfortunately, more than 75% of New England homes are under-insulated, often because they were built before modern energy standards were in place. As a result, heat escapes easily, setting the stage for ice dam formation.

Improving insulation helps keep warm air inside the living space where it belongs, while proper ventilation allows cold air to circulate in the attic and keeps the roof surface cold. Together, these upgrades not only reduce the risk of ice dams but also improve comfort year-round and lower energy bills. They can also help reduce moisture buildup in the attic, decreasing the likelihood of mold and mildew.

With today’s increasingly unpredictable winter weather, ice dams are no longer just a problem after major snowstorms. Repeated freeze-thaw cycles mean they can form quickly and unexpectedly. Addressing insulation and ventilation now, before damage occurs, is one of the smartest investments a homeowner can make.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros, Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros, Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Your Winter Water Heater Tune-Up Guide

Your Winter Water Heater Tune-Up Guide

When the cold creeps in and the snow starts to pile up, there’s nothing worse than realizing your hot shower just turned into an arctic plunge. Winter is hard enough without water heater problems and the good news is, a little preventative maintenance now can save you from a mid-January cold-water crisis later. Here are a few easy, DIY-friendly steps to keep your water heater running efficiently all season long.

1. Give It a Little Elbow Room

Your water heater works best when it can breathe. Head down to the basement and make sure there’s at least two feet of clearance around the unit. Over time, storage boxes, paint cans, or the kids’ old hockey gear tend to creep closer. Clear that space so air can circulate and you have easy access for inspection and maintenance.

2. Check the Temperature Setting

If you’ve never looked at your water heater’s thermostat, now’s the time. Set it to 120°F - that’s the sweet spot for most homes. Any higher and you risk scalding (especially if you have little ones), plus you’ll waste energy heating water hotter than you need. Any lower and you might invite bacteria to grow. It’s a quick twist of a dial that can make a big difference in comfort and safety.

3. Flush Out Sediment (It’s Easier Than It Sounds)

Connecticut’s water tends to be mineral-rich, which means sediment can build up in the tank over time. That layer of grit forces your heater to work harder and can even make popping or rumbling noises. To flush it:

• Turn off the power (or gas supply).

• Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom.

• Run the other end to a floor drain or outside.

• Open the valve and let the tank drain until clear.

If it’s been years since your last flush, you may need to repeat the process. This simple step can extend the life of your heater and improve efficiency. Just make sure you close the valve tightly when you’re done.

4. Insulate for Efficiency

Your hot water heater loses heat through its tank and pipes, especially if it lives in a chilly basement. Wrapping it in an insulating blanket (available at any hardware store) can help retain warmth, meaning your system doesn’t have to work as hard.

Also insulate the first six feet of hot and cold water pipes coming from the tank. Foam pipe sleeves are inexpensive and take just minutes to install. It’s one of those small upgrades that pays for itself fast in energy savings.

5. Test the Pressure Relief Valve

This valve is a key safety feature that releases pressure if the tank gets too hot. To test it, place a bucket under the discharge pipe, then lift the valve’s lever gently. You should hear water or air escape briefly. If nothing happens, or it leaks afterward, it’s time to replace the valve. Don’t skip this one; it’s a simple check that can prevent dangerous pressure buildup.

6. Mind the Anode Rod

Your water heater’s anode rod is like a sacrificial hero - it attracts corrosive minerals so your tank doesn’t rust. But it wears out over time. Every few years, check it by unscrewing the hex head at the top of the tank (you might need a socket wrench). If the rod looks thin or coated in calcium, replace it. It’s a $20 part that can add years to your heater’s life.

7. Keep an Eye Out for Trouble Signs

Rusty water, strange noises, or puddles around the base of your heater are all warning flags. A little condensation on cold days is normal but leaks are not. If you see rust or corrosion near fittings, or your water takes longer to heat up, call in a professional before winter really sets in.

8. Know When to Call the Pros

While most of these steps are DIY-friendly, there are times to tag in an expert. If you smell gas, see scorch marks, or aren’t comfortable handling electrical or plumbing components, stop and call a licensed technician. It’s always better (and cheaper) to fix a small issue early than replace the whole system later.

9. Bonus: Plan Ahead for Replacement

If your water heater is over 10 years old, start budgeting for a replacement. Even a well-maintained tank won’t last forever, and Connecticut’s freezing winters are not kind to aging systems. Newer models are more energy-efficient and often eligible for utility rebates, so upgrading might save you more than you think.

A little attention now keeps the hot water flowing and your winter mornings comfortable. Whether it’s flushing out sediment, tightening valves, or adding insulation, these small steps add up to big peace of mind. 

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Attic Ventilation is Key for the Home

As summer gives way to cooler fall nights here in Connecticut, your attic becomes one of the hardest-working (and most overlooked) parts of the house. Trapped heat, lingering humidity, and poor airflow can quietly damage your roof from the inside out. The solution is simple but powerful: proper insulation and ventilation. When done right, this combination protects your roof, lowers energy costs, and delivers a return on investment that lasts for decades.

In our area, many attics are under-insulated and poorly ventilated. I still meet homeowners who want to save a few bucks by shingling over an old roof. The problem is, what you can’t see can hurt you - trapped moisture and heat can quietly rot plywood, cook shingles, and shorten a 30-year warranty roof to something far less.

Airflow is non-negotiable. A healthy attic “breathes”: fresh air in at the eaves and stale, warm, moisture-laden air out at the peak. Intake typically comes through continuous soffit vents or a product like SmartVent, which installs near the gutter line. For exhaust, modern ridge vents beat old louver (gable) vents. If you have both, keep the louvers closed - mixing systems turn those louvers into unintended intakes that only cool the top third of the attic and leave the rest to sweat it out.

Insulation and ventilation are a package deal. Ventilation manages airflow; insulation manages temperature. Fiberglass batts (yep, the pink or yellow stuff) and blown-in insulation reduce heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer. But without balanced ventilation, even the best insulation can absorb moisture, slump, and underperform - especially as temperatures swing this time of year. That’s when we see telltale signs like musty smells, rusty nails, and in cold snaps, even frost on the underside of roof decking.

A quick seasonal checklist can save you from expensive surprises:

• Make sure bath fans and dryer vents exhaust outside, not into the attic.

• Confirm continuous intake at soffits (baffles help keep insulation from blocking airflow).

• Use a continuous ridge vent for exhaust; don’t mix with open gable louvers.

• Air-seal attic penetrations (wires, pipes, light boxes) before adding insulation.

• Aim for appropriate insulation depth and even coverage, especially over the living areas.

Thinking about re-roofing? Ask your contractor for a ventilation and insulation plan - not just a shingle quote. Upgrading airflow and R-value when you replace a roof is the definition of smart timing. It protects the new shingles, preserves the roof deck, keeps comfort consistent, and trims energy costs season after season. In other words, it’s one of those un-flashy upgrades that pays you back quietly, year after year, while your neighbors wonder why their AC and furnace never seem to get a break.

As summer winds down and the furnace season creeps in, set your attic up to win. Proper insulation and ventilation will regulate temperatures, manage moisture, extend roof life, and safeguard warranties. It’s a modest upgrade with long-term dividends and comfort you can feel with savings you can count on.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros, Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro”. All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros, Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.