A Backyard Makeover: Deck Versus Patio

This is the time of year when spring fever hits and I start dreaming about backyard barbecues and refreshing dips in the pool. With spring right around the corner, I decided it was time to give my backyard a bit of a facelift, and after ripping out a 25-year-old deck, I was confronted with a big decision. Should I stick with my current setup and re-lay a fresh, new deck, or is it time to shake things up with a patio?

Both a deck and a patio can transform a backyard into a relaxing space to enjoy in the spring, summer, fall, and even winter. While many people use the words deck and patio interchangeably, they are actually quite different. A patio refers to a paved or laid space that is directly on the ground and uses materials such as concrete, stone, tiles, pavers, or brick as a foundation. Some patios have a built in firepit, barbecue, seating area, or outdoor kitchen and many are used to surround an inground pool. A deck is constructed of wood, vinyl, or composite and is not placed directly on the ground. They generally have a support system which holds them in place, making them ideal for uneven surfaces or building an extension on the second level of a home. Decks can also boast features such as a pergola and will often contain a railing or fencing for safety and privacy. They are ideal for framing an above ground pool and can also offer a fantastic vantage point if your home looks over a view.

For a lot of people, choosing a deck over a patio or vice versa has a lot to do with the aesthetic. Since patios are often made of stone, they have a smooth look that blends in nicely with the natural surroundings. Patios can also work very well with landscaping and trees, which can offer privacy without the need to build a fence. On the other hand, a deck can be a real statement piece and new technology in wood and composite means that it will keep looking newer for longer. But no matter what look you like, you first have to think about what you’re actually using the outdoor space for.  

Often times, the terrain in your yard or local building codes will dictate which option you go for. If you’re on a slope or a hill, a deck might be your best bet unless you want to pay out the nose for excavation. Then you’ll need to think about the weight that will sit on the surface. If you’re planning on getting a hot tub, that would be better suited for a surface that sits directly on the ground. You’ll also want to consider the weather. Will a solid patio be able to drain properly with the rain and snow that falls in our area? Again, these are just a few things to consider before you start thinking about the materials to use.

Next week, we’ll discuss more of the pros and cons of a deck versus a patio and get into the various costs to consider when revamping your outdoor space.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Spring is Prime Time for Basement Leaks

Lately, I’ve been talking about the importance of proper ventilation in the attic to prevent leaks. But as the spring starts to edge closer, the basement takes the stage as the place in the house where leaks will most likely occur.

As the temperature warms, the snow melts, and the rain becomes more frequent, the ground gets saturated with water. This water can find its way into your basement through non-structural cracks in poured concrete walls or deteriorated joints in masonry walls. Poorly fitted or old basement windows can also let water in, as well as utility openings.

The best line of defense against a wet basement is to make sure that the water is directed away from the foundation. Inspect your gutters and downspouts to see if they are working the way they should be and also check to see that the ground right around the house is higher than the rest of the yard. Having the yard grade at its highest around the perimeter of the foundation will ensure water drains away from the house instead of into it.  

If you think the house is susceptible to leaks, you can also use a waterproofing membrane or coating to seal the foundation or basement area. However, if you have regular leaking problems, you may need to have a drainage or sump pump system installed by a professional.

Even if you don’t have a leak problem, the basement can get pretty damp in the springtime which creates the perfect environment for nasty mold and mildew. To get rid of the excess water, I always like to run a dehumidifier in the basement as the weather warms up.

A dehumidifier works by pulling the moisture out of the air and storing the excess water in a holding tank. Many people keep dehumidifiers in their basement all year long to control the dampness that can often be felt in underground areas, but I find it especially useful this time of year.

You can find out if your basement is holding a lot of moisture by purchasing a simple five-dollar humidity gauge from the local hardware store. Ideally, you want the humidity to be under 50%. If it’s higher, a dehumidifier might be a good solution. Generally, a unit will come in 25, 30 and 40-pint models, and on average a 25-pint unit will be sufficient to control the moisture in a 1,000 square foot area.

One last word of advice - if you have a dehumidifier or plan on getting one, please be sure to empty it regularly and keep the filter clean. A simple wipe down with a damp cloth and spray bottle will do the trick to keep you breathing freely and ensure a longer life for the appliance.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Let Your Home Breathe with Proper Attic Ventilation

Last week we talked about how poor ventilation can cause frost and icicles inside the attic and dangerous ice dams outside at the base of the roof. These warning signs should set off alarm bells for homeowners as they can lead to major leaks and expensive damage to shingles, walls, and insulation. So let’s take a look at how to mitigate any potential problems with a quick crash course on attic ventilation.

An attic that’s well ventilated will reduce heat build-up in the summer and allow moist, warm air to escape the house in the winter. A house that can “breathe” properly is more energy efficient, keeps the home dry, and reduces the potential for ice build-up in the winter.

Have a look at your roof. Do you see any vents under the eaves, at the top of the gable or along the ridge? Some vents can be tough to spot, so if you’re unsure, think back to our recent winter storms. Did the cold temperatures result in a build up of thick ice near your gutters? If so, this is a telltale sign that your home isn’t properly ventilated. You can also check by grabbing a flashlight and heading up into the attic. If you see dampness, frost, or icicles, it means you have a ventilation problem. In the summer, just simply touching the ceiling can tell you if your vents aren’t adequate. If the ceiling feels hot, your attic is effectively acting like a solar panel, increasing your cooling bills by trapping hot air that can’t escape.

Proper ventilation works as a system with different vents controlling air intake and exhaust. As heat escapes the main living area of the house, a correct system will allow that air to flow through the attic instead of getting trapped inside it. It works like this. Escaping air from the main living space of the home will flow through a soffit vent at the base of the roof near the gutters and along the underside of the eave. As this air enters the attic, it rises up and will then look to exit, which will often be through a gable vent or a ridge vent at the very top of the roof. If the air is flowing properly, the attic will stay cool and dry and you won’t have to worry about those dreaded ice dams.

So how do you know how many vents you need for your home? Ventilation is determined by area, so start by figuring out the square footage of your attic. For example, a 30-foot x 50-foot attic would equal 1,500 square feet. Professional contractors estimate about one square foot of vent opening for every 150 square feet of attic area as per Connecticut building codes, so in this case, you’d be looking at 10 square feet of total vent area. Each vent will come with a net free vent area (NFTA) measurement to help you calculate your vent size, and the total area should be split evenly between intake and exhaust vents. Remember that vents need to be free and clear in order to work properly, so if you feel like you have enough vents but are still having issues with airflow, make sure to check that they aren’t being blocked by insulation or accidently covered over.

Have a question about ventilation, insulation or roofing? Feel free to shoot me a message on Facebook at www.facebook.com/odonnellbros.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.