Build that Privacy Fence in a Few Easy Steps

Constructing a privacy fence to border your yard might be high on the “want” list, but with questions around permits, tools, materials, and the physical build, it might be one of those projects that you prefer to put off until next summer.

Last week we talked about some of the rules and regulations around building a fence in our area, as well as the materials you’ll need, and some simple tips to help ease the process. This week, we’ll talk about what you’ll need to do to get that fence up and protecting your yard.

Fences aren’t just your typical wood slats anymore; nowadays they are often constructed in six to eight foot long panels, which can be made from wood, vinyl, steel, or other materials. The panels make a fence much easier to install with a few tools, some precision, and patience.

Once you decide on the type of fence you want and the size of the panels, you’ll start by measuring the area that the fence will border. Draw the fence line with spray paint and then measure the line using a measuring wheel to get the exact length. You’ll also want to mark and measure your gates according to their size. Remember to subtract the gate widths from the total length of the area, as these spaces will not require panels.  

Once you have the area measured and marked, you can determine where your posts should go. One post will need to be installed every six to eight feet, dependent on the length of your panel. Your posts are your anchors so be diligent about this measurement or before you know it, that new fence will come crashing down. You can use chalk lines as a guide, but make sure the post’s position is consistent all around the area.  

Once your posts are marked, you can begin to dig. You’ll need a post hole digger for this part of the project and you’ll want to ensure your holes are at least three times as wide and half as deep. I always suggest digging below the frost line since our winters can get pretty brutal. Once your holes are dug, you can add about six inches of gravel to the hole to ensure proper drainage, followed by around six inches of mixed concrete. Set your post into the hole and level the concrete around it, sloping the mixture slightly away from the post. Now make sure to let it dry according to the time specified on the packaging. Do not install your panels until the concrete has properly cured, which can take up to a few days.  

Once your concrete is set, you can attach the panels using deck screws or nails. The type of fence material you’re using will depend on the best fastener – nails are good for wood while deck screws are a better option of metal or vinyl panels. Either way, make sure your fasteners are long enough to secure the panels tightly. A two or three-inch nail or screw should do the trick, depending on the thickness of your panel. 

Finally, you can attach your gates. Also, if you have them, you can add caps to the fence posts by using a rubber mallet to ensure they fit snugly on top.

There you have it, a brand new fence to keep your family secure and keep out prying eyes. Now go pour yourself a tall glass of lemonade and relax the rest of the afternoon away. I won’t tell! Happy Memorial Day weekend everyone.

Enjoy a Summer of Solitude with a Privacy Fence

With summer creeping up on us, I’m sure you’re looking forward to spending time swimming in the pool, enjoying a barbecue with the family, and relaxing on weekend afternoons in the privacy of our own backyard. With all of these activities to look forward to, now might be a great time to make your outdoor domain a bit more intimate with the installation of a privacy fence.

Building a fence might seem like a tough task, but with a little bit of pre-planning and some help, it can be a fairly easy project to tackle. So let’s get to it.

The first thing you’ll need to do is apply for a permit, which can be done at Bristol City Hall. You can find everything you need to know on the City of Bristol website under the Building Department tab. There are specific height regulations that you’ll need to be aware of as well as rules for where your fence can be installed in relation to your property borders. Materials and colors are also enforced; so make sure you review the documentation before you start your project. If your fence doesn’t follow city code, you’ll be forced to take it down and you could get fined.  

Once your permit has been issued, it’s time to start planning and getting your materials in order. I suggest starting by ensuring that your new fence will deliver the privacy you’re after. Cut a cardboard or thin wood screen to the height of your future fence and get a friend or family member to help you assess the fence’s privacy potential in both sitting and standing positions. Because fence heights are regulated, you want to make sure yours gives you the result you’re after without breaking any building codes. If the fence doesn’t do the job, you might want to look at bushes or other landscaping solutions.

Once you’ve confirmed that your fence height offers the privacy you desire you can begin to take your measurements and gather your materials. Be sure to clearly mark the border where the fence will eventually stand using stakes and string, and don’t forget to review the city placement codes before driving in your posts. Also, be aware of any shallow pipes or wires that could be damaged as you begin to dig. 

There are a few things to consider when you’re getting your materials, including style, size and durability. Generally, fence panels come in six or eight-foot lengths, and you’ll want to ensure that you’re installing them in a way that will maximize their durability. The number of vertical posts you’ll need is pretty simple, as it will depend on the length of the panels and the size of the area you’re looking to border. However, you have some choices in terms of the horizontal rails you’ll need to support the fence. For some people, two 2x4’s will do the trick, but if your fence is in a place that’s more susceptible to our sometimes brutal weather conditions, installing three horizontal rails will help to stabilize the structure and decrease the potential for future sagging or wind damage.

Finally, you’ll need to think about your gates. I always like to have two gates, which are required to open inward on the property. Have a good think about what the gates will be used for when you choose their placement and width. Gates that need to allow lawn equipment and machinery to pass through will need to be wider than those that just let people in and out of the area.

With your fence materials chosen, you’re almost ready to build! Next week I’ll share some of my top tips on how to install your fence with ease. Stay tuned.

Image courtesy of Bullard Fence

There’s a roof fungus among us

Has a pattern of strange, streaky stains appeared on your roof this spring? As I drive around town, I see many houses decorated with a display of unsightly roof residue, which frequently pops up during this wetter time of the year. But what is it, why has it emerged and what can you do to get rid of it? They are all good questions, so let’s get you some answers.

Stains on the roof are generally algae or mold, which tend to crop up as humidity rises and warmer temperatures start to emerge. Now don’t be too alarmed, small black stains and mold aren’t necessarily going to ruin your roof, but they do affect the curb appeal of your home and the problem could end up being damaging if not dealt with for a long period of time.  

An interesting fact is that copper is toxic to algae, and many newer roof shingles contain copper granules, which act as a barrier against any mold growth. Homes with older roofs won’t benefit from this technology, but it explains why you won’t see algae where metal flashing has been installed. If you’re susceptible to algae and in the market for a new roof, be sure to inquire about this type of shingle.

So now that we know what it is, how do we get rid of it? The easiest way to rid your roof of mold is a good old-fashioned bleach and water mixture, which can be applied using a pump sprayer and rinsed with the garden hose. One tip is to give any plants below the roof a good drink of water beforehand so they don’t absorb the bleach mixture. Diluted bleach is a powerful compound that will clean the roof without any adverse effects, so long as you give it a good rinse afterward. There are other products on the market that will do the job, just pop into your local hardware store to find out what’s best for you based on your home’s symptoms.

Once the roof has been cleaned, you might want to do something to prevent the mold from coming back again. As I mentioned, copper, and zinc-coated sheet metal for that matter, are toxic to algae, so installing a strip of flashing will help stop that nasty fungus in its tracks. Choose a strip that’s at least six inches wide, and have it installed at the roof peak to ensure that the metal molecules wash down with the rain and protect the roof from mold build up.  

If you’re not comfortable on a ladder, call a professional to help you complete this task. A clean roof isn’t worth a trip to the hospital, and a local area home improvement specialist will be able to complete the job in less than a day.