Help! My house temperature changes with the seasons

A question came in from a reader this week that I think will resonate with a lot of you. She asked:

“Dear Bob, my husband and I live in a Cape Cod that was built in the 1960’s.  The house gets unbearably cold in the winter and very warm in the summer, to the point where we almost can’t use the second floor. Why does this happen and what can we do to fix it?” 

Well, reader, you’re not alone. This is a common problem in Cape Cod style homes that were built in the 1950’s and 1960’s. Back then, building codes were much more relaxed and energy efficiency was unheard of, so homes were built with very little insulation or ventilation. What’s happening in your case is that the outside weather is coming in (because there isn’t enough insulation to protect your home against the intrusion) and then the air is getting stuck in the attic and seeping down into the second floor (because there is no ventilation to let it out). What’s worse is that the moisture in the air is also getting trapped; giving you a potential mold exposure problem that can easily go right from your attic into your lungs. 

So what do you do? First, test to see if I’m right. Take advantage of a free insulation inspection from a local area professional to see if your insulation is up to scratch. If you haven’t had the house insulated since it was built, I can guarantee it’s not. If you’ve recently bought a 1950’s or 1960’s home, now is the time to pay close attention.

Today, we measure insulation by its “R-Value” and the higher the R-Value, the better the insulating properties. In the 1960’s, R-Value wasn’t a popular unit of measurement and instead, most insulation was measured by its thickness in inches. To give you an example, if a typical 1960’s home was insulated at all, it was probably fitted with an R-10 value, which equates to a little over three inches of thickness. The recommended R-Value for Connecticut’s climate according to EnergyStar today is between R-49 and R-60 for an uninsulated attic and between R-38 and R-49 for a home with a few inches of preexisting insulation. So as you can see, times they are a changin’.

If your house is the victim of extreme temperature changes, the easiest and best way to regulate it is to build that barrier of protection. A professional can tell you how much insulation you need and can also perform an assessment to see if any mold has formed in the attic and walls. It’s key to remember that adding insulation will change the way your home breathes, so make sure it is fitted with proper ventilation to allow for appropriate airflow. If you just experienced a cold winter at home with energy bills to beat the band, this springtime project is one you can't afford to miss. 

Would you like more information or to request a free inspection? No problem, please feel free to get in touch. 

Get rid of ice dams once and for all

Last week we talked about ice dams, the pesky water build-ups that freeze in your gutters and leave a massive frozen dam that can wreak havoc on your house. As temperatures below freezing become a more regular occurrence for us Connecticutians, it’s a good idea to understand how you can prevent ice dams, and how to safely remove them as a temporary measure.

Ice dams generally form on the outside of homes that aren’t properly insulated and ventilated. The snow and ice on the roof begins to melt, and it slides down the pitch before refreezing into what eventually becomes a nasty layer of ice build-up. Because the water doesn’t have anywhere else to go, it can start to seep into your walls, causing costly leaks inside the home.

So how do you stop this from happening? Firstly, take advantage of a free insulation inspection offered by a local expert. A remodeler can check your attic to see if you have sufficient insulation and ventilation. Over 75 per cent of homes I visit don’t have proper insulation, which will not only allow ice dams to form, it will also let that brutal winter wind come right into your house. Luckily, insulation is an easy and cost-effective solution, which pays for itself in both energy efficiency and resale value. 

A quicker fix is to use heated cables, which you can buy at your local hardware store. By installing these cables on the base of your roof, you will level out the temperature, allowing the snow to melt and the water to drain off the roof and through your gutters like it’s supposed to. Of course, the cables must be installed before the snow hits, when your roof is dry. A 200-foot cable will run you about $150.

These solutions are both very effective, but what if you have an ice dam now? Firstly, be very careful about hacking at the ice with a shovel or pitchfork, as you’ll very likely damage your roof or gutters, and possibly injure yourself in the process. If you have a leak in your attic, start by using a fan to blow cold air at it, which will equalize the temperature and temporarily stop the water from getting in. Then start to pull any excess snow off the exterior of the roof with a shingle safe roof rake. Once the roof is clear of snow, you can use calcium chlorate ice melter to begin tackling the dam. If you have some old, long socks or a pair of pantyhose, you can fill them with ice melter to keep it in place, rather than allowing it to run off the roof with the melting ice.  Keep an eye out for ice melters that are specific to roofs, so you can be sure the chemicals won’t damage your shingles. Do not use rock salt! 

Remember, this is only a temporary fix and won’t prevent future ice dams from forming.  Also, ice dam removal can be dangerous work, so only attempt it if you are very comfortable working on a ladder. If not, contact a professional for help.

Beware of ice dams this winter

One of the perils of living in New England is the cleanup of the winter weather that so often blows our way. In addition to the ice chipping and the snow shoveling, there is one more serious homeowner hazard that can create a headache both inside and outside, and cause major damage your home. The culprit I am talking about is ice dams.

Let me give you some background. An ice dam forms when heat from inside your home causes snow on your roof to melt and the water to trickle down into the gutters. This sounds like what is supposed to happen, except that when the water slides down, it can often refreeze before it drains because the temperature changes from the top of the roof to the bottom. As the water moves it refreezes, causing a blockage in the gutters and drains. Since the water has nowhere it go, it builds up, and looks for other places to go, such as under your shingles. The snow continues to melt, refreeze and accumulate, growing aggressively until you have what we call an ice dam, or a large mass of frozen water that grows from your gutters and the base of your roof.

So why does the temperature change? Well that’s easy. We all know that heat rises, and when your house isn’t properly insulated or ventilated, the heat from the living areas of your home will rise into the attic, hitting the highest temperatures in the very peak of the roof. So it’s no surprise that snow starts to melt at that very point, where the temperature can easily rise to 32 degrees Fahrenheit, or melting point. As the water makes its way down the roof, the temperature decreases; enabling the water to refreeze by the time it finds its way to your gutters. As that water builds up, it begins to form an ice dam. 

Have you ever looked around the neighborhood and seen a house with big beautiful icicles hanging from the roof? Those icicles aren’t just a pretty bi-product of winter weather; they are a sure fire sign that an ice damn is forming.

Ice dams can be a real problem, especially in older homes that aren’t properly insulated and ventilated. As the water builds up, it can leak into the house and cause damage to the walls, ceilings, insulation and other areas. Additionally, an ice dam that is melting can channel water down into the foundation, which can cause leaks and mold formation in the basement.

Worried about ice dams damaging your house? Next week, we’ll talk about the ways to temporarily fix them, and what you can do to ensure they don’t pop up again next winter.