Spring Rain Means Basement Leaks

Winter and spring are the two most common times for house leaks. During the colder months, it’s generally the roof that’s a worry, but as spring starts to edge closer, the basement takes centerstage. 

As the temperature warms, residual snow melts, the rain becomes more frequent, and the ground gets saturated with water. This water can find its way into your basement through non-structural cracks in poured concrete walls or deteriorated joints in masonry walls. Poorly fitted or old basement windows can also let water in, as well as utility openings. 

The best line of defense against a wet basement is to make sure that the water is directed away from the foundation. Inspect your gutters and downspouts to see if they are flushing out the way they should be and also check to see that the ground right around the house is higher than the rest of the yard. Having the yard grade at its highest around the perimeter of the foundation will ensure water drains away from the house instead of into it.  

If you think your home is susceptible to leaks, you can also use a waterproofing membrane or coating to seal the foundation or basement area. However, if you have regular leaking problems, you may need to have a drainage or sump pump system installed by a professional. 

Even if you don’t have a leak problem, the basement can get pretty damp in the springtime which creates the perfect environment for nasty mold and mildew. To get rid of the excess water, I always like to run a dehumidifier in the basement as the weather warms up. 

A dehumidifier works by pulling the moisture out of the air and storing the excess water in a holding tank. Many people keep dehumidifiers in their basement all year long to control the dampness that can often be felt in underground areas, but I find it especially useful this time of year. 

You can find out if your basement is holding a lot of moisture by purchasing a simple five-dollar humidity gauge from the local hardware store. Ideally, you want the humidity to be under 50%. If it’s higher, a dehumidifier might be a good solution. Generally, a unit will come in 25, 30 and 40-pint models, and on average a 25-pint unit will be sufficient to control the moisture in a 1,000 square foot area.

One last word of advice - if you have a dehumidifier or plan on getting one, please be sure to empty it regularly and keep the filter clean. A simple wipe down with a damp cloth and spray bottle will do the trick to keep you breathing freely and ensure a longer life for the appliance.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

A Musty Basement Isn't Just an Odor Issue

A lot of people think that the musty scent of a basement is par for the course. Isn’t having a space that’s underground going to smell no matter what? The answer is actually no. Sure, basements are prone to higher humidity which means that it’s easier for mold and mildew to spore since moisture enables them to thrive. So that basement smell is actually mold, which, in addition to having a funky odor, can also cause decay and damage to a home over time. For people who suffer from asthma and other respiratory issues, the problem can be even more serious. 

The ideal humidity level for most homes is 50% or lower, but in basements, humidity can often skyrocket to 80%, which is the perfect environment for mold and mildew to flourish. If your basement seems extra damp, I highly suggest investing in a dehumidifier that will work to draw the moisture out of the air. You’ll be shocked at how quickly the holding tank on an average-sized unit fills. You may have to dump it daily, but in doing so you’ll be removing moisture that allows mold to grow in the first place.

Next, it’s time to purify the air. Overly humid areas attract a lot of bacteria, which is what causes the smell in the first place. That bacteria can live in walls and spread into your fabrics, furniture, and storage. By killing the bacteria in the air, you will remove contaminants that not only stink, but can also cause or irritate allergies, asthma, and immune system disorders.

One of the best air dehumidification and purification units I’ve seen is by a company called Aerus.  They produce a system that uses NASA technology to remove pathogens, pollution, contaminants, and even pet dander from the air. Regardless of what brand you go with, be sure to look for a unit that has the EnergyStar seal, and make sure that you pay attention to the capacity of the air filtration as it pertains to your room size. If you have a big space with a lot of moisture, you might want to consider a unit that has a self-draining system to save your back and your patience.

Regardless of your plan of attack, the air quality in your home should be taken seriously. If your kids are coughing or have allergies and you find yourself having difficulty breathing at home, it might be worth a call to your local contractor for an air quality inspection. The symptoms of a mold allergy are not dissimilar to a common cold, so a simple reading of your in-home humidity might be a smart first step.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Keep Energy Bills Down In Winter With These Tips

Outdoor lights, Christmas trees, and colder temperatures mean that December is usually one of the most expensive months in terms of utility bills. But with the holiday season behind us, January is a great time to take a closer look at how much energy you’re using and address the issues in your home that are causing those high costs. 

One resource that not enough people take advantage of is an energy audit by Energize Connecticut. For a fee, a home energy consultant will come to your home and conduct a full assessment, covering your furnace and water heater, air ducts, windows, doors and more. Plus they can offer rebates for upgrades and repairs. To apply, visit the EnergizeCT website and choose your service provider.

If you’re not in the market for an assessment would still like to enjoy some serious home energy savings, here are the top five spots I always check for air leaks and heat loss. 

1. Windows. Believe it or not, hanging heavy fabric drapes can help you retain up to 25% of the heat in your home. This is especially true with large glass doors that aren’t being used in the winter months. Also, be sure to check for gaps. Wooden window frames get warped with age and can lead to serious air leakage. For cracks that are smaller than a quarter of an inch, a silicone caulk will work to plug up areas where heat is escaping. Also, if you feel air coming right through your single panes and the glass rattles with the wind, beef them up with some shrink film. This product can be found at any home supply store and can be cut to fit any size. 

2. Doors. We don’t often open the windows in the winter, but doors are a different story. They let lots of air escape, but they can’t be sealed completely because we need to use them. I always suggest inspecting your door sweep to ensure it’s not damaged and replacing it if the bristles have come loose. A door snake or seal can also come in handy, which can be purchased at any big box store or even made at home with an old pair of stockings and some rice, beans, newspaper or another filling.

3. Attic. Those of you with an attic hatch are likely losing a ton of warm air through its frame. We all know that hot air rises, so seal up that hatch with heavy duty plastic, or build yourself an insulated box to fit over the entryway if you still need access to storage. 

4. Water Heater. Insulate your water heater’s tank and pipes with fiberglass. For the tank, fit a fiberglass blanket using foil tape, but be sure not to cover any valve or pipe openings. For the pipes, you can use fiberglass wrap or foam insulation. By adding a layer of insulation to your water heater, you’ll keep the warmth from escaping into the air and you’ll protect the machine from condensation in the warmer months. 

5. Insulation. Most homes simply do not have enough insulation in the walls and attic, which is probably the number one contributor to sky-high energy bills. Insulation acts as a barrier against heat flow, helping to keep the warm air inside the house by slowing the flow and stopping the heat from getting outside. The United States Environmental Protection Agency says that with proper insulation, the average home in our area can save approximately 16 to 50 percent in total heating and cooling costs depending on the age and condition of the home. Plus it’s one of the highest rated home improvements in terms of real estate resale value. 

Happy New Year Everyone! Here’s to a warm, happy and healthy 2020!

Bob O'Donnell is the owner of O'Donnell Bros, Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro”. All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O'Donnell Bros, Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.