Late Summer Veggies for a Fall Garden Harvest

If you think late summer is the time to give your garden a rest, think again. This time of year is perfect to get late fall and winter veggies into the ground to enjoy a delicious harvest even when the frost sets in. For those of you with a green thumb or even if you regret not getting in the garden earlier this year, now is a great time to get planting. Let’s start with three basic tips.

First, make a note of the frost dates. A smart cool weather garden will thrive if it’s in the ground and has time to mature well before the daytime temperature starts to settle at around 55 degrees. The almanac has the first frost around the second week in October, which means you have about six weeks to get your crops settled in. 

If you’ve decided on a fall garden, you might want to think about building a cold frame. You can buy one at a local hardware store, or make your own using plywood and plastic with holes for ventilation. For a small garden, a hinged plexiglass box will do the trick but for larger beds, consider heavy-duty plastic sheeting.

Lastly, use this opportunity to give back to your garden and get it ready for next season. If you’re not too picky about what to plant or you aren’t interested in harvesting, consider a cover crop - a species that will improve the health of your soil, enhance your garden’s biodiversity, and keep pests and weeds at bay. Peas and beans are the best choices for veggies, and clover, rye, buckwheat, and sorghum work really well too.

Once you’ve committed to a fall garden, the only decision left is what to plant! Some of my favorite vegetables do really well in the colder months, so luckily you have tons to choose from. In terms of leafy greens, you have your pick with chard, kale, lettuce of all kinds, and spinach. Other tough veggies like broccoli, beets, carrots, and radishes are plenty strong for these colder months.  My favorites roasters like fennel, parsnips, turnips, and Brussels sprouts also do incredibly well this time of year. And let’s not forget rhubarb for a delicious late-season pie!

If you love all these veggies but can’t get yourself to commit to a late summer garden, don’t worry. Bookmark this for six months' time and get excited to kick off the spring with early planting. Happy Gardening!

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Crabgrass Begone

With a ton of rain, very high humidity, and hot temperatures, weeds are having a veritable field day this summer. For those of us who love a beautiful lawn, crabgrass is enemy number one and it’s loving every bit of the weird and wild weather we are having.

Crabgrass is just like other weeds in that it likes to take over. Once crabgrass gets its roots down, it spreads quickly, killing healthy grass in its path. Of course, crabgrass dies on its own when it starts to turn cold, but not treating it means it’s more likely to come back. Here’s what you can do today to get rid of it and keep it from ruining your lawn next year. 

The best course of action for crabgrass is a pre-emergent, but that’s only good in the spring before the crabgrass starts to grow, so if you missed it, it looks like you’ll be pulling by hand. That’s right, get out that kneepad because the best way to remove any weed is to pull it out, ensuring the roots come with it. The recent rain should have loosened those roots up a bit so now is as good a time as any.

Once you have the crabgrass out, you can fill in the bare spots with healthy grass seed and plenty of water. It’s important to wait to reseed if you’ve recently sprayed your lawn with weed killer. Water is also key here because the heat does make it tough for grass to grow. 

Now for your mowing. It’s best to keep the grass a bit longer and to let the clippings stay in place to give some nutrients and shade back into the lawn. Three inches is a good, healthy length for both old and new grass.  

If you’re looking for a chemical solution, you can use a post-emergent, but this can be tricky as the wrong product will kill your grass. When in doubt, it’s best to leave this job to a professional landscaper who can advise you on the most appropriate course of action. You don’t want to accidentally burn your whole lawn while trying to save it. 

Don’t forget, treating your lawn with a pre-emergent in the spring is the best way to avoid crabgrass in the first place. Crabgrass starts to germinate when the soil reaches 55 degrees, so it’s a good idea to get out there in April to ensure that your hard work is worth the effort.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Now Is The Time for Mulch

Garden procrastinators certainly got it right this time. While it’s tempting to build a solid landscaping foundation early in the spring, this year’s windy weather coupled with a serious pollen overload means that now is actually a great time to get started.

Mulch might not always seem necessary and spreading it too early can actually be a hassle, especially if it then gets covered over with tree debris. But this extra step actually has many benefits that make overall yard maintenance much easier throughout the season. 

Let’s start by giving you a few basics. The pros use mulch to cover bare soil in flower beds, around trees, and any grassless area that’s susceptible to weeds. Mulch acts as a protectant; it keeps the soil warm and moist while keeping weeds at bay. Most mulch options are made from organic materials such as wood and bark, so natural nutrients are absorbed into the ground. Plus, mulch really makes a yard look tidy and well-looked after. So let’s talk about the options because all are not created equal. 

Wood 

The most popular mulch is chipped wood or shredded bark which you can get from a landscaper, lumberyard, or even for free if your town has a public compost. Wood mulch is highly customizable both in color and in size. Bigger chips give the ground more breathing room but they move around a bit more, while shredded materials stay put slightly better. In terms of color, you can always go natural or choose red, brown, or black mulch to match your home aesthetic. Mulch is colored using vegetable dye which might temporarily stain any paths, walkways, or your hands. It’s nothing a good 20-second scrub or a rainstorm won’t take care of.

Stone

If the area that you’re mulching is on a slope, I recommend going with pea gravel instead of wood mulch. Pea gravel is heavier and will stay put in high drainage areas much better than wood. There is such a thing as too much moisture and if an area tends to be wet, wood mulch can get moldy. Stone will allow the water to pass through easier without retaining excess moisture.

Straw

If you want to protect a newly seeded area of your lawn, straw is a great option. Not to be confused with hay which can germinate and produce weeds, straw will help grass seed from washing away and it deters birds and mice from a feast. It also naturally decomposes so there is no clean-up, but remember, this option is only for temporary use.

Regardless of what you use, I always recommend weeding your beds and staking gardener’s fabric around existing trees and shrubs before you mulch. This is the best defense for weeds and it lasts for years so you don’t have to worry about doing it every spring. Whatever you do, don’t use plastic unless you don’t want anything at all to grow. Unlike fabric, plastic will cut off any oxygen to the area, effectively making it a dead zone for all plants, shrubs, and trees. Also, don’t be shy while you’re spreading. Weeds are strong and won’t be deterred by a thin layer. Go for a base of four or so inches to keep them from popping through. 

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.