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17 Divinity St
Bristol, CT, 06010
United States

8605895155

Since 1975, O'Donnell Bros has been providing greater Bristol and Central Connecticut with residential and commercial remodeling solutions. We specialize in roofing, siding, windows, doors, gutters, downspouts and so much more. We look forward to helping you with all your remodeling needs. 

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Articles

O'Donnell Bros President, Bob O'Donnell, is a regular contributor to The Bristol Press. Read his home improvement articles here.

 

Filtering by Tag: dehumidifier

Painting Over Mold? The Truth About ‘Quick Fixes’

Chelsea O'Donnell

Mold is unsightly, and I understand that nobody wants to stare at a dark, blotchy patch on their bathroom ceiling or basement wall. Sure, a quick coat of paint seems like an easy way to make the problem disappear. But here’s the thing about “quick fixes”: they’re rarely fixes at all. Especially when it comes to mold.

Painting over mold is one of those home myths that just won’t die. It looks better for a little while, sure. But underneath that shiny new layer of paint, the problem is still there and it’s growing, spreading, and getting ready to bubble its way back to the surface.

Let’s talk about why this happens, what it means for your home, and the right way to deal with it (so you’re not repainting again next month).

Why Paint and Mold Don’t Mix

Mold is a living organism, not a stain. It feeds on organic material like drywall paper, wood, dust, and anything else it can digest. It also thrives in damp, humid environments. When you paint over mold, you’re basically trapping that living organism under a layer of latex and giving it a warm, dark place to multiply.

Even paints labeled as “mold-resistant” don’t kill existing mold; they simply make it harder for new spores to take hold. Think of them as preventive, not curative. Once mold has already started to grow, those spores will continue doing what they do best - eating, spreading, and eventually breaking through the surface again.

That’s why the dark spots you “covered up” always seem to come back, no matter how many coats you roll on. You didn’t solve the problem. You just hid it temporarily.

The Real Risk Isn’t Just Cosmetic

Mold isn’t just an eyesore. Prolonged exposure to mold spores can aggravate allergies, trigger asthma, and cause respiratory irritation, especially in kids, older adults, and anyone with a compromised immune system. Even if your home’s air feels fine, hidden mold can create ongoing air quality problems that only get worse over time. And if it spreads into insulation, behind drywall, or under flooring, you’re looking at a much bigger repair bill later.

So no, it’s not “just a little spot.” It’s a sign of a deeper moisture issue that needs your attention.

How to Fix It the Right Way

Before you paint, you have to address two things: the mold itself and the source of the moisture that caused it. Here’s the right order of operations:

  1. Find the moisture source. Is there a roof leak, poor ventilation, a plumbing issue, or a condensation problem? Fix that first. Otherwise, the mold will just come back.

  2. Kill the mold. For small areas (less than 10 square feet), you can usually handle it yourself. Wear gloves, a mask, and goggles, and use a cleaner designed to kill mold, not just bleach. Bleach can discolor mold, making it look gone when it isn’t.

  3. Remove damaged material. If the mold has eaten into drywall, insulation, or wood, those materials need to go. Scraping and cleaning won’t cut it if the spores have taken root inside porous surfaces.

  4. Dry the area completely. Fans and dehumidifiers are your friends. Moisture left behind is an open invitation for mold to start over.

  5. Seal and repaint. Once the area is clean, dry, and sound, use a high-quality primer made for problem areas before painting. Products designed for bathrooms or basements help prevent future issues.

Prevent, Don’t Patch

Once you’ve done the hard work, prevention is your best defense. That means improving ventilation, keeping humidity below 50%, and addressing leaks immediately. It also means thinking long-term. Proper insulation, vapor barriers, and routine roof and gutter maintenance all play a role in keeping moisture (and mold) out.

Final Thoughts

Painting over mold might make things look better for a while, but it’s the home-improvement equivalent of spraying air freshener in a garbage can. The only real solution is to stop the problem at the source.

So, before you pick up that roller, step back, figure out what’s causing the moisture, and deal with the mold properly. It’ll save you time, money, and maybe even your lungs.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Steamy Temps Bring Summer Window Woes

Chelsea O'Donnell

This past week’s brutal heat and sky-high humidity had many of us hiding indoors, glued to the AC. But while we were doing our best to stay cool, our windows may have been trying to tell us something. If you’ve noticed water droplets forming on the inside of your windows—or a foggy film that just won’t quit—you’re dealing with summer window condensation. And no, it’s not just a minor annoyance. It can be a sign of bigger problems brewing in your home.

So, what’s going on here?

Condensation forms when warm, humid air hits a cooler surface. In the winter, that’s usually on the inside of your windows. But in the summer, it’s the reverse. Your air conditioner is keeping your indoor air refreshingly cool, while the air outside is heavy and hot. When those two climates meet, like when humid air seeps in and touches your chilly window glass, moisture condenses, and you get that telltale fog or water buildup.

In reality, a little condensation now and then isn’t the end of the world. But if you’re noticing it regularly, especially during extreme heat and humidity, it can point to problems with ventilation, insulation, or moisture control in your home.

In our Connecticut climate, summer humidity is no joke. Add in long showers, laundry, cooking, and even houseplants, and you’ve got a recipe for excess indoor moisture. If your home doesn’t have proper airflow or if your windows aren’t up to the job, that moisture sticks around, and your windows become the battleground where it all shows up.

And here’s the thing: if you ignore it, condensation can go from cosmetic to costly. Excess moisture creates the perfect environment for mold and mildew, which can trigger allergies, irritate lungs, and leave a lingering musty smell. Over time, moisture can also cause wood window frames to warp or rot, damage seals, and reduce your windows’ effectiveness. Even if it’s just clouding your view, you’re still losing out on natural light and visibility.

So, what can you do?

Start with airflow. Use exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens, and don’t be afraid to crack a window when the outdoor air is drier. A dehumidifier can also make a significant difference, especially in areas prone to moisture, such as basements.

Next, take a hard look at your windows. If they’re single-pane or older double-pane units, they might not be insulating properly. Modern double- or triple-pane windows are designed to prevent this kind of condensation by minimizing temperature swings on the glass surface.

And don’t forget the little things like sealing air leaks around windows and doors, opening blinds or drapes during the day to improve air circulation, and keeping indoor plant collections in check. Every small step helps.

Condensation might seem like a minor inconvenience, but it’s often a symptom of bigger issues in your home’s comfort and energy efficiency. Take care of it now, and your windows and your wallet will thank you later.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Got a home issue you’d like Bob to tackle? Email info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Combat Summer Humidity in the Home

Chelsea O'Donnell

After a lot of rain followed by heat and humidity, it’s no surprise if your house starts to feel a little swampy. Summer weather may be great for your garden, but it can spell trouble for your home if humidity isn’t kept in check.

While we can’t control what’s happening outside, the real concern is what that sticky air is doing inside, particularly in basements, attics, and anywhere else moisture loves to settle. That moisture can lead to mold, mildew, musty smells, and even damage to your home’s structure over time.

A lot of folks assume their air conditioner has them covered, but the truth is, while it cools the air, its dehumidifying powers are more of a side effect than a solution. Air conditioners recycle and chill indoor air, which helps a little with moisture, but if humidity is high, they’ll struggle to keep your home comfortable and dry.

That’s where a dehumidifier comes in. Unlike an AC unit, a dehumidifier’s sole job is to pull excess moisture from the air and collect it in a tank. If you’ve ever felt that damp, clammy vibe in your basement, you’re not imagining things, and a dehumidifier can make a big difference. In fact, starting in the basement is a smart move, since that’s usually the most humid part of the house.

Want to know how humid your house really is? A $5 humidity gauge from the hardware store will tell you. Ideally, your indoor humidity should be under 50%. If it’s higher, consider running a dehumidifier in the most-used parts of your home, especially on those muggy days when it feels like you’re living inside a wet sponge.

Bonus: a dehumidifier doesn’t just make the air feel more comfortable. It also helps prevent mold growth, eliminates musty odors, and keeps old pipes from sweating. And here’s a neat trick, reuse the water collected in the tank to hydrate your plants. They won’t complain.

Dehumidifiers come in different sizes, usually 25, 30, or 40-pint models. A 25-pint unit generally works well for a 1,000-square-foot space, making it a good fit for most basements or mid-sized rooms.

Worried about the energy bill? Don’t be. Dehumidifiers typically use about half the electricity of an AC unit. To save energy, only run the unit when humidity spikes (above 50%), and keep windows and doors closed while it’s on. Just don’t run it all night in the bedroom - they can dry out the air a bit too much while you sleep.

And don’t forget maintenance. Dehumidifiers can get clogged with dust and debris, which blocks airflow and could even spread mold if left unchecked. A quick wipe-down of the filter with a damp cloth and a spritz of all-purpose cleaner will keep things running smoothly.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.