Power Washing Done Right

When it comes to giving your home’s exterior a fresh, clean look, few things are as satisfying as a good power wash. Over time, siding, decks, patios, and walkways collect layers of dirt, mildew, pollen, and grime—especially after a long New England winter and a wet spring. Power washing can bring surfaces back to life, but it’s not as simple as pointing and spraying. In fact, using the wrong pressure or technique can cause real damage.

So before you rent a machine or hire someone to tackle the job, here’s what you need to know to do it safely and effectively.

What Exactly Is Power Washing?

Power washing, sometimes called pressure washing, involves using a high-pressure stream of water to clean outdoor surfaces. Some machines use hot water (true “power washers”), while others use cold. Either way, the goal is the same: remove built-up dirt, mold, algae, and stains.

It’s commonly used on vinyl siding, wood decks, fences, concrete walkways, and driveways. Done properly, it can restore surfaces to like-new condition. But when done poorly, it can strip paint, dent siding, damage wood, or even force water behind your walls, causing moisture problems you won’t notice until later.

Why Technique Matters

The biggest mistake homeowners make with power washing is using too much pressure or holding the nozzle too close to the surface. While it might feel like you’re getting a deep clean, what you’re really doing is wearing away layers of your home.

Wood decks, in particular, are easy to damage. Softwoods like pine can splinter if blasted too hard. Vinyl siding can crack or become loose. Even concrete patios can show streaks or etching if the pressure is too high. Window seals, trim, and exterior caulking are all vulnerable to water intrusion if the spray angle is too aggressive.

The key to successful power washing is using the right amount of pressure and keeping a safe distance. Professionals typically start several feet away from the surface and gradually move closer, testing as they go. They also choose the correct spray tip for the job - wider angles for delicate surfaces, narrower ones for tough stains.

When It Works and When It Doesn’t

Power washing works well on most exterior materials - vinyl siding, concrete, brick, and certain types of wood. But it’s not ideal for everything. Asphalt roofing, older masonry with loose mortar, and painted surfaces that aren’t in great condition can be easily damaged. It’s also important to avoid spraying near electrical outlets, light fixtures, or windows.

Some surfaces benefit from using a cleaning solution before washing. Mildew and algae, common in shady areas or near trees, may require a cleaner designed for siding or decks. These help break down organic growth so that the power washer can rinse it away gently.

Know When to Call in a Pro

If your home is two stories tall, has delicate finishes, or hasn’t been cleaned in years, hiring a professional might be the safer option. A reputable company will know how to get the job done without harming your home’s exterior or landscaping. They’ll also have the right equipment for harder-to-reach areas.

Power washing can be a great way to refresh your home’s curb appeal, but it’s not a job to take lightly. With the right tools and a little know-how, you can do it yourself safely. And when in doubt, a professional can help protect your investment.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Have a question? Email info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Combat Summer Humidity in the Home

After a lot of rain followed by heat and humidity, it’s no surprise if your house starts to feel a little swampy. Summer weather may be great for your garden, but it can spell trouble for your home if humidity isn’t kept in check.

While we can’t control what’s happening outside, the real concern is what that sticky air is doing inside, particularly in basements, attics, and anywhere else moisture loves to settle. That moisture can lead to mold, mildew, musty smells, and even damage to your home’s structure over time.

A lot of folks assume their air conditioner has them covered, but the truth is, while it cools the air, its dehumidifying powers are more of a side effect than a solution. Air conditioners recycle and chill indoor air, which helps a little with moisture, but if humidity is high, they’ll struggle to keep your home comfortable and dry.

That’s where a dehumidifier comes in. Unlike an AC unit, a dehumidifier’s sole job is to pull excess moisture from the air and collect it in a tank. If you’ve ever felt that damp, clammy vibe in your basement, you’re not imagining things, and a dehumidifier can make a big difference. In fact, starting in the basement is a smart move, since that’s usually the most humid part of the house.

Want to know how humid your house really is? A $5 humidity gauge from the hardware store will tell you. Ideally, your indoor humidity should be under 50%. If it’s higher, consider running a dehumidifier in the most-used parts of your home, especially on those muggy days when it feels like you’re living inside a wet sponge.

Bonus: a dehumidifier doesn’t just make the air feel more comfortable. It also helps prevent mold growth, eliminates musty odors, and keeps old pipes from sweating. And here’s a neat trick, reuse the water collected in the tank to hydrate your plants. They won’t complain.

Dehumidifiers come in different sizes, usually 25, 30, or 40-pint models. A 25-pint unit generally works well for a 1,000-square-foot space, making it a good fit for most basements or mid-sized rooms.

Worried about the energy bill? Don’t be. Dehumidifiers typically use about half the electricity of an AC unit. To save energy, only run the unit when humidity spikes (above 50%), and keep windows and doors closed while it’s on. Just don’t run it all night in the bedroom - they can dry out the air a bit too much while you sleep.

And don’t forget maintenance. Dehumidifiers can get clogged with dust and debris, which blocks airflow and could even spread mold if left unchecked. A quick wipe-down of the filter with a damp cloth and a spritz of all-purpose cleaner will keep things running smoothly.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Mold in the Home: Why Spring is Prime Time for Growth in Connecticut

When spring rolls into Connecticut, we welcome warmer temps, blooming flowers—and unfortunately, the perfect storm for mold. With all that spring rain and lingering moisture, mold growth becomes a common (and sneaky) issue for homeowners this time of year.

Mold thrives in damp, dark spaces, and once it finds a cozy spot in your home, it doesn’t need an invitation to stick around. Whether it’s behind walls, under flooring, or up in the attic, mold can quietly spread while you’re none the wiser—and it’s not just your home at risk. Mold spores in the air can also wreak havoc on your health.

Most people associate mold with the usual suspects: the shower tiles, the bathroom grout, or that old sponge you really should toss. But mold problems often lurk in much less visible places. If you’ve ever had a roof leak, a damp basement, or a poorly ventilated attic, odds are you’ve had mold—even if you never saw it.

In fact, at least half the homes I visit for remodeling projects have mold problems hiding beneath the surface. It’s not always dramatic black splotches on walls; sometimes, it’s the faint discoloration on a ceiling or that musty smell in a room that never quite dries out.

So, what can you do to stop mold before it becomes a serious (and costly) problem? Start by keeping moisture at bay—especially during the wet spring season. Here are my top prevention tips:

• Keep gutters and downspouts clear so water drains away from your foundation.

• Grade your yard properly. The ground should slope away from your home, not toward it.

• Fix roof leaks immediately, and have your contractor check for any mold during repairs.

• Watch your ceilings for discoloration or bubbling paint—these are red flags.

• Install quality ventilation in bathrooms, and make sure fans vent outside, not into the attic.

• Don’t let carpets stay damp. Mold can begin forming within 48 hours of water exposure.

• Place trays under large appliances like washing machines and refrigerators to catch leaks.

• Use a dehumidifier in basements or any area prone to excess humidity.

And here’s the kicker—if you’ve already tried cleaning or painting over mold and it keeps coming back, that’s a big red flag. Surface fixes won’t solve a deeper issue. If mold returns, it’s time to bring in the pros before it spreads further or impacts your indoor air quality.

Spring is beautiful in Connecticut—but it’s also wet. Don’t let mold sneak in with the season. A little prevention now can save you a big headache (and an even bigger repair bill) later.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.