Let Your Home Breathe with Proper Attic Ventilation

Last week we talked about how poor ventilation can cause frost and icicles inside the attic and dangerous ice dams outside at the base of the roof. These warning signs should set off alarm bells for homeowners as they can lead to major leaks and expensive damage to shingles, walls, and insulation. So let’s take a look at how to mitigate any potential problems with a quick crash course on attic ventilation.

An attic that’s well ventilated will reduce heat build-up in the summer and allow moist, warm air to escape the house in the winter. A house that can “breathe” properly is more energy efficient, keeps the home dry, and reduces the potential for ice build-up in the winter.

Have a look at your roof. Do you see any vents under the eaves, at the top of the gable or along the ridge? Some vents can be tough to spot, so if you’re unsure, think back to our recent winter storms. Did the cold temperatures result in a build up of thick ice near your gutters? If so, this is a telltale sign that your home isn’t properly ventilated. You can also check by grabbing a flashlight and heading up into the attic. If you see dampness, frost, or icicles, it means you have a ventilation problem. In the summer, just simply touching the ceiling can tell you if your vents aren’t adequate. If the ceiling feels hot, your attic is effectively acting like a solar panel, increasing your cooling bills by trapping hot air that can’t escape.

Proper ventilation works as a system with different vents controlling air intake and exhaust. As heat escapes the main living area of the house, a correct system will allow that air to flow through the attic instead of getting trapped inside it. It works like this. Escaping air from the main living space of the home will flow through a soffit vent at the base of the roof near the gutters and along the underside of the eave. As this air enters the attic, it rises up and will then look to exit, which will often be through a gable vent or a ridge vent at the very top of the roof. If the air is flowing properly, the attic will stay cool and dry and you won’t have to worry about those dreaded ice dams.

So how do you know how many vents you need for your home? Ventilation is determined by area, so start by figuring out the square footage of your attic. For example, a 30-foot x 50-foot attic would equal 1,500 square feet. Professional contractors estimate about one square foot of vent opening for every 150 square feet of attic area as per Connecticut building codes, so in this case, you’d be looking at 10 square feet of total vent area. Each vent will come with a net free vent area (NFTA) measurement to help you calculate your vent size, and the total area should be split evenly between intake and exhaust vents. Remember that vents need to be free and clear in order to work properly, so if you feel like you have enough vents but are still having issues with airflow, make sure to check that they aren’t being blocked by insulation or accidently covered over.

Have a question about ventilation, insulation or roofing? Feel free to shoot me a message on Facebook at www.facebook.com/odonnellbros.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Help! I Have Icicles in My Attic

Not long ago I received a question from a reader who lives in an older home in the Bristol area. She wrote to me because she had gone to get something that was stored in her attic and noticed that there were icicles hanging off the framing inside. She wasn’t sure how they got there but she was worried and reached out to ask my advice. I’m so glad she did.

It might be hard to believe that icicles can form inside the house, but in many older homes that lack proper insulation and ventilation, the attic can become a magnet for condensation, which will freeze when it gets cold enough and the moisture has nowhere to go.

We all know that heat rises, and when we heat our homes in the winter, a lot of that warm air moves up through our ceilings and into the attic, rising all the way up to where it should be able to pass through the vents to the outside. However, if those vents aren’t working properly, the condensation and air have nowhere to go, so it collects on any cold surface below the dew point and turns into frost. After a while, this frost builds up to form icicles. The more moisture that builds up in the attic, the worse the problem will become. As temperatures rise and that ice and frost start to melt, it can saturate your insulation with water, causing mold and mildew problems as well as potential leaks in your ceiling. What’s worse is this isn’t even just a winter problem. Condensation build up can cause issues in your attic all year long.

So how do you stop the condensation from forming? Your first move is to look for sources that are pushing excess warm air into the attic. If you have a whole house fan, it’s a wise move to cover it as the louvers are letting your valuable heat escape quite easily. Bathroom fans are another sure bet for letting air through and they will cause major condensation issues if they are blowing into the attic instead of venting directly outside. Finally, make sure your folding stairway is covered over with an insulated box or weather stripping to avoid losing that extra heat.

While sealing off places that allow excess heat to get into the attic is a great idea, the one thing you never want to do is seal off your attic vents. Attic ventilation is a system which includes intake vents in the soffit and exhaust vents at the roof’s ridge. If these vents get sealed or blocked, there is nowhere for the condensation to go, so it gets trapped and can easily manifest into a leak. Believe it or not, the average family of four generates two to four gallons of water vapor each day from cooking, cleaning, showering, laundry, and breathing. If that water is left sitting in the attic, you’re going to have a problem.

These freezing temperatures give you a great opportunity to take a look up in your attic to see if you have any frost or icicles culminating in your home. Next week I’ll tell you more about how to properly ventilate and insulate an attic to make sure your property isn’t prone to leaks and other condensation-based damage in the future.  

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Make Sure Your Water Heater Keeps You Warm

We’ve had a relatively pleasant winter so far this year, but as we all know, a sudden cold spell in February or March can make it feel like spring will never come. With a few more months left of winter, now is a great time to make sure your water heater is working the way it should. Here is what you need to know.

As a water heater operates, it collects sediment that can cause decay if left in the tank over time. Don’t let this happen to yours. Drain your water heater at least twice a year to get rid of any buildup, which will prevent corrosion and increase the machine’s energy efficiency.  To do this, first turn off the unit and give it plenty of time to cool down. Then, using a garden hose and pump, drain the water into a bucket. If the bucket becomes filled with brown, sediment-tainted water, continue to refill and drain your heater until the water looks normal again. When you’re in the clear, you can disconnect your hose and turn the unit back on.

Keep your water heater at a steady 120 degrees and lower it down if you’re planning on leaving the house for three days or more. For every 10 degrees, you decrease the temperature, you’ll save five percent in energy costs.

Insulate the tank and pipes with fiberglass. For the tank, fit a fiberglass blanket using foil tape, but be sure not to cover any valve or pipe openings. For the pipes, you can use fiberglass wrap or foam insulation. By adding a layer of insulation to your water heater, you’ll keep the warmth from escaping into the air and you’ll protect the machine from condensation in the warmer months.

If you have a valve that’s leaking, make sure that the fittings are nice and tight. If that doesn’t work, you might have to replace the valves or fittings. You can find the parts you’ll need at a local hardware store – just don’t forget to shut off the water first!

Remember, working with electric or gas appliances can be dangerous. If you’re not familiar with how your unit operates or if you’re not comfortable with this kind of work, contact a plumber for a routine maintenance check.  

The average lifecycle of a water heater is about eight to twelve years and they can cost anywhere from $300 for an electric tank system to well over $1,000 for a tankless energy efficient natural gas machine. If you’re in the market for a new machine, do your research and make sure you maintain it regularly to ensure it will go the distance.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.